Chosen Brand: Chanel

I have decided to choose Chanel as my brand for this brief. When deliberating among the list we were given, I knew that the natural beauty brands would not be for me. I wanted to reflect a brand that had more personality and character and something high fashion as that is an area I am interested in and what I think I would be more enthusiastic about.

Chanel is possibly one of the most well known and timeless brands in the world and their range of catwalk looks, editorials and adverts are diverse, creative and often themed. For example, their 'Cruise' or also known as 'Resort' collection is currently based around travel, meaning their clothes, adverts and editorials will be based around this theme. This is a pre-season release that is intended for wealthy customers going on holiday after the winter seasons, and the clothes and looks are ready to wear meaning the customers have things to buy from Chanel in between the A/W and S/S collections.

Chanel's Spring 2016 collection was based on travel, and the coverage of the show was widespread. The runway was transformed into an airport terminal, creating their own 'Chanel Airlines' brand, with the models even trawling suitcases around. There were very feminine looks that featured the infamous Chanel tailored suit, and more boyish looks that featured backwards caps and casualwear.



It is clear even here that the hair differs slightly, however it is still synched at the nape of the neck. Moreover, sunglasses are worn by the models on the right, and despite the model on the left not wearing glasses, their makeup is in a similar shape to this. This is another ode to the 'travel' theme using makeup and hair.

Now that I have chosen Chanel, I will be delving further into its world of advertising, catwalks and editorials.

Second Photography Lesson

-Macro Lenses are lenses that focus more on detail when close up. These are also known as prime lenses as they have one number on them, eg 60mm or 100mm.

-These lenses are perfectly constructed as each component is perfect for 60mm or 100mm shots, meaning the quality is better.

-It is important to note that the lens used is always more important than the camera body.

-You can only use the same brand of camera lens with camera body.

-Tethering is where the computer and camera are linked, so that when a photo is taken it shows up on the screen. This is done with a tethering cable available from the hatch.

-Connect the cable to the computer and to the camera, and login to the computer using 'Student' as both username and password.

-Open the program called 'Capture One', and press 'New Session', then give it a name. Take note of where the photos are being stored, the best place is 'documents'. 

We took photos using beauty dishes, reflective boards and bouncing the light:

On Trend Makeup Look

Following my trend research, I wanted to create a look that was inspired by the S/S 2016 looks. What I followed was the bold eyes, fresh skin and nude lips, however I created a wet look on the eyes as I think that this makes the eyeshadow colour more powerful and striking. Despite blues being a popular colour, I chose reds and pinks because this is a romantic colour that contrasts with the strong hairstyle. The hairstyle was inspired by hair synching. The ponytail is this look but pulled up to the top of the head, and this style is interchangeable as it could be brought down to the nape of the neck and accessorised.

My inspiration was also a look from the cover of this up and coming magazine called 'Novembre' which I follow on Instagram. I am a huge fan of their editorials and their out of the ordinary looks:

Face Chart:

The Look:

Without the wet effect:

Products used:

- MAC Face and Body Foundation in N1 and N5
-MAC Pro Longwear concealer
-MAC Strobe Cream
-MAC Fix+
-Illamasqua Sculpting Powder Duo
-Garnier Micellar water
-Olay Moisturising Beauty Fluid

-Limecrime Venus Palette

-Rimmel Extra Super Lash mascara

-MAC Shine Mixing Medium

-MAC Velvet Teddy lipstick

Foundation and Contour

Products used:
- MAC Face and Body Foundation in N1 and N5
-MAC Pro Longwear concealer
-MAC Strobe Cream
-MAC Fix+
-Illamasqua Sculpting Powder Duo
-Garnier Micellar water
-Olay Moisturising Beauty Fluid











Method

1. Firstly, prep the skin making sure that there is no makeup or dryness. Use the micellar water to take off any excess makeup, use the Olay beauty fluid to moisturise the skin, avoiding the T zone if the client's skin is oily. 
2. Next, mix the two foundations to get the desired colour, and stipple onto the skin. Keep doing this and layering until you get your desired coverage. 
3. Stipple N5 underneath the cheekbones to contour; this leaves a dewy finish. 
4. Mix the concealer to create the desired colour, and stipple this with the ring finger underneath the eye and above the eyelid.
5. Apply strobe cream with the ring finger on the cheek bones, on areas of the forehead, on the tip of the nose, on the cupids bow, on the chin, and in the inner corner of the eyes. 
6. If this look is too dewy, then small amounts of powder can be applied to the shiny areas. 

S/S 2016

Keeping up with the trends that are showcased during fashion weeks are important in order to keep your work current, understand how makeup is evolving and to see how they correspond with the clothes and collections of each brand. Having done some research, I have discovered some trends that were apparent in the Spring/Summer 2016 catwalk collections, and this will help towards creating an on trend catwalk look for my portfolio.

According to Cosmopolitan Magazine:

In the February edition of Cosmopolitan UK, there was an article entitled 'Beauty Report' which gave a brief look at some makeup looks at London, Milan, Paris and New York's fashion weeks.

New York (Simplicity):

New York's fashion week revolved around fresh faced, minimal makeup combined with neat, natural hair, eyebrows and also nails. Notable designers that showcased these looks here were Ralph Lauren, Tommy Hilfiger, Rodarte and Victoria Beckham.

London (Eccentric):

London fashion week contained looks with bold, 90's inspired eyeliner, long sleek hair, bold lips and glitter. Notable designers here were Jonathan Saunders, Issa, Roksanda and Topshop Unique.

Milan (Complexion):

Glowing complexions and highlighted skin were the main focuses of Milan fashion week. This bronze glow was given a creative twist for Prada by Pat McGrath through gold coloured lips. Sleek, wet hair has also been featured. Notable designers at Milan were Albert Ferretti, Missoni, Dolce & Gabbana, No21 and Prada. 

Paris (Sophisticated):

There was a range of looks in Paris, however glowing skin was still a focus, however Sonia Rykiel gave the models a shimmery, smokey eye. Notable designers here were Balmain, Elie Saab, Sonia Rykiel, Diro and Giambattista Valli who put glitter on the eyesockets of the models. 

S/S 2016 TRENDS

After reading Cosmopolitan magazine and looking at the Vogue and Harpers Bazaar websites, here are the main beauty trends that were seen during the spring/summer catwalk shows. 

Bold lips - The red and nude lip look was seen during the shows of designers such as Victoria Beckham, Oscar de la Renta, DKNY and Zac posen who all used both looks. This was combined with fresh, minimal skin. Pat McGrath used her new gold product to create a gold lip look for Prada. 

Victoria Beckham

Prada

Radiant complexion: Almost all the looks from the photos of makeup from S/S 2016 had a strong focus on radiant, minimal, healthy, highlighted skin. This was one of the most clear trends, and designers that used this look includes Roland Mouret, Lanvin, Chloe, Stella McCartney and Valentino.

Stella McCartney

Roland Mouret

Tucking hair in and synching it at the neck- This fashion was seen most notably during Christopher Kane's show where the hair was synched on the neck by a necklace made of cable ties. Moreover, this look of hair being focused at the neck was used also by Dior, Mary Katrantzou and Balenciaga.

Balenciaga

Chanel

Bold coloured eyes/contrast- Use of bright colours, mostly the colour blue, is a prominent look in the catwalk shows. 90's liner and smeared colours and bright eyeshadow were used by designers such as Marc Jacobs, Boss, Missoni, Roksanda, Chanel, and Jonathan Saunders. In addition to this, the contrast between bright eyes and minimal skin is what I noticed on every model that had this look, spanning from all the different designers. 

Jonathan Saunders

Missoni

Marc Jacobs

Braids and plaits- Vogue branded the braids seen during the Spring Summer shows as of a 'tough girl' style. This references the use of corn rows and twisted plaits, seen at Valentino and JW Anderson. 

Valentino

JW Anderson

Hair accessories- Several designers used hair accessories to accompany their makeup looks and their garments. Chanel used metal clasps on pigtails which were also down at the neck, Yves Saint Laurent used tiaras and Lanvin used satin ribbon. 

YSL

Bold lashes- Bold and coloured lashes are a trend that have been seen in the shows. Louis Vuitton and Armani are notable designers. 

Louis Vuitton

References

• TEMPLE, D., 2016. The Beauty Report. Cosmopolitan, 5 February, 165-168.
• http://www.vogue.co.uk/beauty/2015/10/07/spring-summer-2016-beauty-trends---hair-makeup/gallery/1469264
• http://www.harpersbazaar.com/beauty/makeup/g6416/spring-2016-makeup-trends/?slide=30
• http://www.vogue.co.uk/beauty/2015/09/14/spring-summer-2016-hair-and-make-up-backstage

50's/60's/70's Hair

50's:

• Use white and yellow rollers to create small, tight curls. 
• Part the hair as you curl in a down direction on both sides.
• Curl the hair in a brickwork fashion down the back of the head.

60's:

• This look is more to the side, and the fringe is swept around the face. 
• Use red or blue rollers.
• Use 3 rollers down the back and 3 rollers on each side in a downward direction. 

70's:

• Section the hair into a middle parting using a pintail comb. Use red and blue rollers for this look.
• Like in the photos, roll the hair on each side of the parting away from eachother. 
• On the sides of the head, roll the hair away from the face. 
• At the back of the head, use 3 rollers on the back of the hair in a downward direction. 
• On the left and right side of this, use 3 rollers that are in a diagonal direction.
• With the bottom, remaining hair, curl the hair in a brickwork fashion.
• Let the curls cool and then take them out. 

1

Hairdrying

• Wash the client's hair and then brush through with a wide tooth comb. 
• Note the client's hair type- whether it is damaged, if it is coloured, its texture, and whether it will snap easily. 


Products:


• Wide tooth comb
• Paddle brush
• Round brush
• Hairdryer
• Heat protectant
• Hair mousse
• Sea salt spray


Method for full, curly hair:


• Put heat protector on the mid lengths of the hair. 
• Then put light mousse on the mid lengths of the hair.
• Spray sea salt spray on the hair for texture. 
• Make sure that the hairdryer has its back on so as to make sure that no hair is sucked into the back of the dryer. 
• Make sure that it has the nozzle on so that the air is directional. 
• Dry the fringe first. 
1. Section the back of the hair into a 'V' shape. This enables you to dry the bottom layers first and it helps to direction the hair forward. 
2. Get the round brush and bring the hair up high. Dry the root of this section first, then dry the mid section, and finally roll the brush up to curl the end. 
3. Pin the curl to the head for cold curls. 
4. Repeat this throughout the head.
 
Method for sleek hair:


1. Use a paddle brush for the sleek look. 
2. Direction the hair to the front of the face when drying. 

Skin

During this lesson, we focused on creating dewy and matte skin. This was in order to create the perfect blank canvas which is the first step in creating a beauty makeup look.

1. To begin with, prep the skin by cleansing, toning and moisturising, also making sure that there are no remnants of makeup anywhere. Ask the model whether they are allergic to anything as you don't want to use products that will irritate their skin. 
2. If their skin is oily, mattify the skin and avoid moisturising the t-zone area. 
3. Massage the skin to move the blood around the face and aid circulation. 

Dewy skin:

Products used:

• MAC Face and Body Foundation in N1 and N5 mixed together
• MAC Pro Longwear Conealer in NW15 and NW35 mixed together
• MAC Strobe cream
• MAC Fix +

Method:

• Firstly, I mixed the two foundations to create the correct colour. Then I applied it with a stippling brush to create a flawless, smooth base. I applied a few layers of this until I got my desired coverage. This is a very light foundation that can be built up and is very dewy.
• I then applied N5 in the hollows of the face such as below the cheekbones and on the sides of the forehead for some subtle sculpting.
• Following this, I applied a light amount of mixed concealer underneath the eyes just to freshen up the face. 
• Next, I used light amounts of strobe cream on the areas of the face where the light hits. This was areas on the forehead, on the nose, on the cheekbones, on the cupids bow and on the chin. 
• To finish off, I used Fix + in order to make the face even more dewy. Even though I did not use powdery products I think that this product will leave the face looking even more fresh and will also set the makeup.

Matte skin:

Products used:

• Illamasqua Translucent Powder
• Illamasqua Sculpting Powder Duo

Method:

• To mattify the skin, I applied powder on the areas where there was light and dewiness. This meant that contour was still there but there was no shine. 
• In order to highlight without creating a dewy look, I used the highlight from the Illamasqua sculpting powder duo to highlight the face.